UNDER YOUR SKIN • APRIL 13, 2027 • FIRST 3 CHAPTERS FREE →

Facials, Explained


TL;DR: A facial is a professional skin treatment that usually runs 30 to 90 minutes: a double cleanse, some form of exfoliation, extractions when needed, a mask and hydration, sometimes with LED or a machine such as a Hydrafacial. What goes into yours should depend on your skin and on anything you're using on it, especially prescription retinoids.

What happens in a facial

Most facials follow the same order. Your esthetician cleanses your skin twice, looks at it closely, then exfoliates with enzymes, a peel, dermaplaning or microdermabrasion. Extractions clear clogged pores. A mask and hydrating products finish the treatment, and some facials add LED light, massage or a machine step.

Before any of that you'll fill in a consent form. It asks about medications and products, including whether you've used a retinoid in the last two months, because those answers decide which steps are safe for you.

The main types of facial

  • Hydrating and calming facials, such as a classic European facial, a cryofacial or an oxygen facial. Good for dry, red or sensitized skin, and the usual choice while you're on tretinoin.
  • Acne facials, built around deep cleansing, extractions and gentle resurfacing. See acne facials, explained, or try the at-home version.
  • Resurfacing facials use chemical peels, microdermabrasion, dermaplaning or a Green Peel to remove dead skin and work on texture, scarring and dark marks.
  • Machine facials such as the Hydrafacial, which cleanses, extracts and hydrates in one pass with no downtime.

Who facials suit, and who should hold off

Nearly everyone can get some kind of facial. The question is which kind. If you use tretinoin or another prescription retinoid, skip exfoliation, peels, microdermabrasion and skin-tightening treatments; a hydrating facial is the safe pick. Dermaplaning isn't for raised blemishes, a damaged barrier, eczema, rosacea or lupus. Spicule peels like the Green Peel aren't for rosacea, eczema or anyone prone to cold sores.

Aftercare

Keep the next few days simple: a gentle cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen every morning. If you peel, let the skin shed on its own instead of picking at it. Ask your esthetician when you can go back to exfoliants and retinoids, since that depends on what was done.

Questions people ask

How long does a facial take?

Usually 30 to 90 minutes. A focused 30-minute facial covers cleansing, extractions and a light peel; a 90-minute one can combine a machine treatment with other techniques.

Can I get a facial while on tretinoin?

Yes, a hydrating or calming one. Exfoliation, chemical peels, microdermabrasion and radio frequency treatments should wait.

What's the difference between an acne facial and a regular facial?

An acne facial centers on extractions, gentle resurfacing and calming inflamed skin, and acne clients often book one every two weeks or monthly. A regular facial leans more on hydration and relaxation.

Is a Hydrafacial better than a regular facial?

It isn't better for everyone, but it does cleanse, extract and hydrate in one pass with no downtime, which suits most skin types.